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Having spent all my life in Trinidad, it was the first time I would be stationed away from the island of my birth. Last month I took the boat back to Trinidad as I was booked to guide a trip there for a week and a half. The disparity in species could be stark, for example if one were to bird on different sides of the planet.
While preparing an article this week for a local newspaper on the nighttime denizens of Tobago, it crossed my mind that I never considered owls as a group, far less target species for any particular outing (except for a select few, upon which I shall expound here). This resulted in my only photograph of this species to date.
There were three profound questions my birding group discussed while we birded Trinidad and Tobago, back in December 2012: (1) How many Bananaquits could fit on a banana? (2) 3) What was the best guide to the birds of Trinidad and Tobago? 2) Which hummingbird was more beautiful—Tufted Coquette or Ruby-topaz Hummingbird? (3)
And what better way to do it than to fortuitously come upon a fruiting tree being attended to by a multitude of species? It was a dreary morning, with Trinidad under watch for an incoming tropical wave. When we got there, it was still too dark to distinguish species feeding in the canopy. Streaked Flycatcher. Cocoa Woodcreeper.
While the combination of the words “coast” and “forest” may conjure images of tidal mudflats and mangroves or even coconut trees, the northern coastline of Trinidad features tropical rainforest that plunges steeply into the bejeweled waters of the Caribbean Sea. It almost looks as if the bird is underwater!
These and several other species might end up being armchair ticks if and when we take a closer look at their evolutionary history. Taxa that could end up being split into one species occurring north of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, and one south of the isthmus. (2). Two subspecies of the same species that differ within Costa Rica. (4).
Having been marooned on Trinidad for the last two years, my body was aching for a change. For anyone who’s been birding in T&T, you should be able to attest to the fact that Trinidad Motmots are far easier seen on Tobago than on Trinidad. Along the trails there are many species that accompany the walker.
This sleepy fishing village on the north coast of Trinidad should ring a bell – it boasts the densest nesting population of Leatherback Turtles in the entire western hemisphere. The mature forest deep in the hills is the single best place in the world to catch a glimpse of the critically endangered Trinidad Piping Guan.
Out of the approximately 26 species of snipes worldwide, two have been recorded on Trinidad. The trouble begins with the recognition of the fact that both species of snipe were formerly part of a single species – Common Snipe ( Gallinago gallinago ). On Trinidad it took me some more time until I saw my first snipe.
In southern Trinidad, however, there is much more at play than what is immediately discernible. While the P-a-P Wildfowl Trust’s main thrust is the breeding and release of five duck species, the habitat encourages a number of native wetland birds to inhabit and proliferate the area.
Here in Trinidad, we routinely experience several of these migrants – most of these birds surely pass by unrecorded as not everyone is a birder and not all birders are huge fans of suffering from Warbler Neck. Finding any warblers besides these and the three resident species requires considerable good fortune.
By Fitzroy Rampersad Fitzroy or Fitz as he is fondly called began observing and photographing birds when the COVID-19 Pandemic forced border closures around the world including Trinidad & Tobago where he was vacationing at the time. He started putting up homemade feeders to attract the hummingbirds.
Asa Wright Nature Centre in Trinidad holds a prominent position on that list of luminaries. The dichotomous republic of Trinidad and Tobago may be something of a cipher to anyone unfamiliar with the point where the Caribbean ends and South America begins. Now I’ve finally spent time at Asa Wright, I understand why.
Far less experience the two in a single morning. Fortunately, I live in Trinidad and Tobago – a twin-island nation that boasts the second highest density of bird species in the world. The first species we got a good view of was an extremely cooperative pair of White-shouldered Tanagers. Variegated Flycatcher.
Birding in Trinidad and Tobago has been likened to an introductory chapter in the book of birding in the Neotropics. While the 480-odd species recorded within T&T may outstrip our fellow Caribbean islands by leaps and bounds, it pales in comparison to the massive lists of mainland South and Central America. And for good reason.
Many moons ago, when I used to work in the (supposedly) booming petrochemical industry in Trinidad, most of my time was actually spent birding. Although relatively common here they’re notoriously difficult to see well – a phenomenon clearly not unique to this species ! I was thrilled to see a Short-tailed Hawk fly in.
Seven hours in total, reaching halfway up the second highest peak on Trinidad, El Tucuche. Trinidad Lancehead , or Fer-de-lance. The following year, 2014, I elected to join a different group birding the lowland seasonal forest at the opposite end of the CBC radius from where I had that wonderful experience the year before.
Don’t get me wrong, Rufous-breasted Wrens are fairly common across both Trinidad and Tobago. I’m sure in many of my accounts on this blog this species appears in the early paragraphs. All the while it moved a grand total of three times – vastly differing from all my prior experiences with this species!
One of the most regularly traversed roads for the purpose of birding on the island of Trinidad is the Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. Only a couple articles back I described the experience of a morning’s birding along this road. This skulking species always manages to elude me. And on this morning sadly it was no different.
Obliging species like Grey-headed Kingfisher , Long-crested Eagle , and even a pair of Greater Blue-eared Starlings ensured we didn’t get anywhere quickly. Needless to say, I was still overwhelmed by the presence of numerous species of shorebirds I hadn’t previously seen.
During a two-year long moratorium on hunting in T&T, I had some of the most incredible birding experiences. It had been some months since we had been in the hills of Trinidad’s Northern Range, and let it be known that all forests are very different. Our yearly CBC racked up its highest numbers in a decade.
I began recording my bird sightings with photographs in late 2009, and since then I have seen (or at least heard) a fair proportion of species recorded within my home country of Trinidad & Tobago. Of course, a major factor in this decision rests in its status as a resident species. Well, let me explain.
Guyana’s capital city of Georgetown, a quaint, sprawling network of roads and waterways is a regulated introduction to the country’s 800+ species of birds. Wing-barred Seedeater was formerly a common sight on Tobago but intensive trapping for the pet trade has extirpated the species from that island.
Now, although I have seen this species several times before, we have a unique relationship. My first experience was with a nesting pair, one bird was out at the time and the other was comfortably sitting quite low in the nest. I only saw the bird’s head, and made a poor photograph through the bramble.
Back in Trinidad, both Spectacled Thrush and Cocoa Thrush would nest in our backyard. This gave us several chances to experience them at various stages of growth. A pair of Spectacled Thrushes at the very commencement of their noisy life. This Cocoa Thrush seemed to be contemplating whether leaving the nest was a good idea after all.
(The White-tipped Dove is actually called, in Spanish, the Paloma Arroyera , or “Gully Dove” And sorry, I have yet to get a photo of this shy species. Like most of the species on this list, this tiny highland bird prefers to make its presence know by singing, rather than by being seen.
But this experience which I’m about to relate to you was much more significant than chasing a rarity. Having extensive experiences with this species did not prevent me from enjoying them, for as I said – they show themselves. You can still check the spoonbill out in all its innocence here. Frustrated, yes.
Here are the results: 3 per cent of respondents (in no particular order): Trinidad and Tobago, Chile, Tanzania, Madagascar. Yet, the fact that tiny Panama is as popular as huge Brazil, with twice as many bird species, speaks volume for Brazil’s stage of ecotourism development. 8%: Brazil, Panama. 10%: Australia, Papua New Guinea.
Over the course of the following hour or so we observed many different species *coincidentally* alight on the wall near to the body of the fallen yellowlegs. Animals obviously see death and experience it as we do, so the question is not one of if, but of how. Life departed from yet another little body, and all were notified.
I don’t know what the experience is like in other parts of the world – so do let me know – but at least here in T&T, some of the absolute best waterbirding can be done at sewage ponds. On the opposite bank, we spotted a Least Grebe on a nest.
Mentions of Trinidad being the “land of the hummingbird” served to further irk me later on, and the fact that the airline selected this logo to reference that makes me bring up a little bit of breakfast. To my limited knowledge, hummingbirds all had brown wings. Could this be a real bird?
Especially as we were at the time about to experience a rapidly advancing tropical storm. Two species of icterids populated the area, the presence of either was a direct indicator of the degree of water present. But for the time being we occupied ourselves observing two invasive species – Common Waxbills and Tricolored Munias.
An associated issue is that the Belize and Costa Rica guides share many of the same descriptions of species, written by Howell. Similarly, descriptions of species repeated across volumes do not lose their accuracy with each publication. Other species are splits and lumped and have had their names changed. Why are these issues?
Eventually, I learned to read the “status and distribution” section to whittle my must-see list down to species that were actually possible within T&T. The years passed and I had several similar experiences with this cryptic species. Back then, I distinctly remember drooling over plates of birds I needed to see.
Covering 1,261 species with data and taxonomy current up to August 2017, the field guide is an exciting achievement. And, then there are the more familiar birds–Wood-warblers, sandpipers, hawks–some species migrants, some species with a wide range. Can you guess which of the species cited above are endemic?
Those who are familiar with my ethos know quite well that I am very much for the experience as opposed to the payoff. Whether on Trinidad or Tobago, there are few places one can visit where the presence of the sea isn’t felt. Some call it a preference for the journey rather than the destination.
It was a heart-pounding scene straight out of Jurassic Park, an odd experience for a laid-back pursuit like birding. This bird represented only the second documented record of this species in Florida. This may sound mundane, but my Best Bird of the Year is a species we all know quite well in one form or another.
Chacachacare (pronounced shaka-shaka-reh ) is the westernmost of the Bocas islands off the northwestern tip of Trinidad. Accessible by boat only, it takes about half an hour to get there from mainland Trinidad. Trinidad and Tobago has a wide array of different habitats, made possible by a unique rainfall distribution.
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