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After the first two vulture restaurants were opened in Western Serbia in 1990s, the population recovered, they even attracted birds from the then war-torn Herzegovina to move in. We approach a low limestone cliff topped with separate rock formations, like a medieval city wall topped with parapets that offered protection to defenders.
Yet, Bosnia and Herzegovina was the very heartland of former Yugoslavia, with Sarajevo in its geographical centre. Bosnian birders often bitterly joke that the only truly protected reserves in the country are minefields. Overhearing that, the waiter came and introduced himself “I am from Kosovo”.
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